Jordan : Ajloun and Jerash - An Epic Day Trip from Amman

Akshata Karnad
Dec 22, 2024
4 min read

Jordan is a paradise for history buffs. Amman, Ajloun, Jerash, and Petra offer thousands of years of history—from the Paleolithic period through the Ancient, Medieval, and Early Modern periods. Layer upon layer of civilizations waiting to be explored.

This day trip from Amman? Medieval fortress in the mountains, then Roman ruins that'll make you feel like you've stepped into a time machine. It's unreal.

💡PRO TIP: Get the Jordan Pass

Before you book anything, grab the Jordan Pass online. It exempts you from visa fees (if you're eligible for visa on arrival) AND gives you free entry or big discounts across Jordan's top attractions. Believe me, it pays for itself.

Ajloun and Jerash Jordan

Ajloun Castle

After a scenic 1.5-hour drive from Amman through rolling green mountains, you'll reach Ajloun Castle. This 12th-century fortress sits high above the Jordan Valley—and that strategic location was no accident.

QUICK FACTS

Drive from Amman: 1.5 hours

Time needed: 1-1.5 hours

Best for: History lovers, panoramic views

Entry: Covered by Jordan Pass

The castle was initially built by the Umayyad Dynasty in the 8th century, then expanded by the Ayyubids. From up here, you can see massive stretches of the Jordan Valley—which is exactly why it was built. Perfect defensive position.

Inside, you'll find artifacts everywhere. Pottery, ceramics, ancient coins, weapons, intricate mosaics. The craftsmanship is stunning, and every piece tells a story about trade, warfare, and daily life centuries ago.

Walk through stone corridors, explore the central courtyard, climb up to the watchtower. The panoramic views of the surrounding forests are breathtaking. When you're standing there looking out over the valley, you understand exactly why this spot mattered.

The whole castle takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes to explore. After that, head back down to the foothills—Jerash is only 25 minutes away.

Jerash: Trekking Through Roman History

Why do I call it a trek? Because Jerash isn't just a "walk through ruins." It's a proper trail—up and down, weaving through colonnaded streets, climbing theater steps, exploring temples. And what a beautiful trek it was - a true archaeological marvel.

QUICK FACTS

Drive from Ajloun: 25 minutes

Time needed: 2-2.5 hours

Difficulty: ⭐⭐ Moderate (lots of walking, some stairs)

Best time: Morning or late afternoon (less heat)

Entry: Covered by Jordan Pass

The ancient city of Jerash is an archaeological marvel. Grand colonnaded streets, massive temples, theaters, triumphal arches, the iconic Oval Plaza. Walking through it felt like stepping back into the glorious days of the Roman Empire.

The Roman Theatre

This theater blew my mind. Not just because it's stunning (it is), but because of the engineering genius behind it.

The seating area is semi-circular with a steep incline—every single seat has a perfect view. The stage has a proper backstage, performer entrances and exits, the whole production setup. But here's the incredible part: the acoustics.

The Romans designed the theater to amplify sound naturally. The shape of the cavea (seating area), the materials used, the angles—all calculated to project actors' voices to the back rows. No microphones.

No speakers. Just brilliant engineering.

And the theater had a water system for spectators to drink and for performances, plus a hypocaust (underfloor heating) to keep everyone warm during cold weather. How thoughtful is that!

The Oval Plaza & Beyond

The Oval Plaza is mesmerizing. The intricate mosaics, the towering colonnades, the way light plays across ancient stone—you can almost hear the echoes of ancient civilizations.

Walk the colonnaded streets. Explore the Temple of Artemis. Stand in the middle of the Hippodrome. Jerash is massive, and every corner testament to the city's historical significance and architectural prowess.

SCAM or FUN : Locals around Jerash offer photography services—they're incredibly skilled at getting those Instagram-worthy shots. They'll often ask for a purchase or tip afterward. Use your discretion, but they do know the best angles!

Practical Details

Timing Your Day Trip

The Route:

Amman → Ajloun Castle (1.5 hours)
Ajloun → Jerash (25 minutes)
Jerash → Amman (1 hour)

Time Breakdown:

Ajloun Castle: 1-1.5 hours
Jerash: 2-2.5 hours
Total: 5-6 hours including drives

We skipped lunch and just grabbed snacks along the way, then had a proper meal back in Amman in the evening. But you could easily pack a picnic or stop at a local restaurant between sites.

What We'd Do Differently

Allow time for hiking. We didn't have time, but Ajloun's rolling hills have beautiful trails with stunning views and chances to spot local wildlife. On a good weather day, a short hike would be incredible.

Start earlier. We left at about 9am in the morning, which was fine, but an earlier start would've given us more time at each site along with a hike.

FINAL TIPS

Logistics:

Buy Jordan Pass online before you arrive (saves money + hassle)
Wear comfortable walking shoes—Jerash especially is a lot of steps and uneven terrain
Bring water and sunscreen (limited shade at both sites)
Consider hiring a guide at Jerash (the history is complex and fascinating)

What surprised us:

How much walking Jerash actually involves (it's huge!)
The engineering brilliance of the Roman theater's acoustics
How green and mountainous Ajloun is (different from the desert imagery of Jordan)

Tour Operator: My Fairy Trail helped us plan our Jordan itinerary exactly how we wanted it. They're excellent for custom trips, reliable guides, and making sure everything runs smoothly. Highly recommend reaching out if you want a stress-free Jordan experience.

☀️ Seasonal Note

We visited in October—perfect weather for exploring. Not too hot, clear skies. Summer (June-August) can be scorching, especially at Jerash with limited shade. Spring (March-May) and fall (September-November) are ideal.